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Beaker_Bob

WSCC Member
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    70
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20 In Build

About Beaker_Bob

  • Rank
    Pedestrian
  • Birthday 17/01/1981

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Westfield FW Sport
  • My Location
    Halifax

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  1. Beaker_Bob

    West Yorkshire - Rolling Road

    Afternoon all, Does anyone have a recommendation for an engine mapper / rolling road in West Yorkshire? I'm located close to Halifax so would prefer something as close to their as possible. However, I would much prefer to go with a personal recommendation and travel a bit further that take my chances on google or the yellow pages! Cheers Bob
  2. Beaker_Bob

    Misfire

    @Weekend Warrior Thanks Steve. As they say, a picture says a thousand words and that’s exactly what I was after. I know I have a fault on the same temp sender, I’m hoping after sorting that out I have the same outcome as you! Fingers crossed! Many thanks Bob
  3. Beaker_Bob

    Misfire

    Hi @Weekend Warrior. I have perhaps a similar issue to you on a 2.0l Zetec blacktop. You mention a problem on a water temp sender. I am assuming you have two senders like mine, one in the cylinder head between cylinders one and two and another either in the thermostat housing or in the feed pipe? If so, which one did you have the wiring fault on? cheers Bob
  4. Beaker_Bob

    Blacktop Zetec, loosing power under load

    Thanks all.....again! I'm pretty sure the temp sender that looks dodgy is the one supplying the DASH and that the one for the ECU is located near the alternator, however I need to confirm this. I have the OMEX software and should be getting a lead tomorrow. I'll see if looking at the ECU sheds any light on things! Cheers Bob
  5. Beaker_Bob

    Blacktop Zetec, loosing power under load

    So, after a few hours of skinning my knuckles in the engine bay and underneath the car this is what I have accomplished: I have had visual check of spark plugs, HT leads, Coil Pack, Battery Connections (cleaned for good measure), all engine sensor plugs (Crank, Coil, Air Temp, TPS, Injectors - all cleaned and reseated), fuel vent (cleaned), fuel pump connections (disassembled, cleaned and reassembled), throttle linkage. Earths Main earth bond on the chassis, was disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled. Next to the master fuse, the small earth bond was not done particularly well as the powder coat underneath was still there. Pic 1 below Out with the dremel and this has been sorted. I believe there should be another earth bond towards the front of the car, mounted to one of the steering rack bolts, however i have not been able to locate another earth...! That said, out with the meter and checking resistance back to the negative lead off the battery i got no more than 0.3 ohms across the engine block and random points on the chassis. Water Temp After doing all of the above, I started the car. Whilst it started first time, immediately i got a warning of "Water Temp Low Level" via the DASH2 and a reading of zero degrees. After a minute or two of looking over the engine bay I turned the engine off and restarted, low level warning cleared and gauge temp began to rise. It was late by this time so came back to this tonight. As I understand it, there are two temp senders in the engine bay. One in the block located near the alternator for coolant temp feeding the ECU. And a second (most often located in the hockey stick pipe) in my case located in the base of the thermostat housing which feeds the gauge on the DASH. Pic 2 below Starting the engine from cold again tonight and same fault occurs, "Water Temp Low Level". Turn off and back on again and the fault disappears. It seems when it gets warm it starts to behave itself. The temp sender in the thermostat housing looks OK, but the earth ring doesn't look great. However metering across it seemed to be OK (~0.5 ohms). Its a pig to get at, but some more checks of the wiring needed and / or a new temp sender. Question then becomes, is the "potentially faulty" temp sender the cause of the loss of power under load, or just another fault that has cropped up. If it does just feed the gauge on the DASH then my feeling is this is just one of those things that has cropped up over winter as I have a slight weep from the thermostat plug on top. If the water temp sender is not the root cause then where next.....? @RandyMcStab thanks for the additional suggestions, i'll add them to the list of checks! That said, other than the timing, i'm going to have to buy or borrow some kit to check compression and fuel pressure. The only other thing to say is that after all of the above I have yet to road test it. Running in the garage it behaves (bar the water temp of course) but with a boat and fog horn being a better option currently here in Yorkshire I don't know how it will behave under load. Cheers Bob
  6. Beaker_Bob

    Blacktop Zetec, loosing power under load

    Thanks for all the advice, will report back when i have made some progress!!!
  7. Beaker_Bob

    Blacktop Zetec, loosing power under load

    Thanks Jon / Tableleg, I'll see if I've got a serial to USB and give it a go. Thanks Bunje. Think that's the first place I'll start!
  8. Beaker_Bob

    Blacktop Zetec, loosing power under load

    In theory yes, but practically no! I have a suitable laptop but no suitable cable or software. Its on my list of things to try and get hold of but for the time being, i'm back to trial and error!
  9. Beaker_Bob

    Flat carbon fibre sheet

    I have recently bought carbon sheet from Easy Composites. The piece i needed was only 250mm by 225mm, but they go up to 2000mm x 900mm in 3mm sheet: http://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/cured-carbon-fibre-products/rigid-carbon-fibre-sheet/High-Strength-Carbon-Fibre-Sheet.html Im sure if you contact them, they might help out with custom sizes. Sorry cant help with sealing, although epoxy might work well. Bob
  10. So after a winter of tinkering and weekend of good weather, the car was back on the road, all was well or so i thought......! Car/Engine: 2.0l Ford Zetec Blacktop Standard Tune (to the best of my knowledge), OEM inlet manifold, no evidence of headwork / cams etc. The rolling road printout i have albeit old suggests 150bhp Omex 600 series ECU CTEK battery conditioner always on when not in use Engine does have some pops and crackles on over run, but has always been like this so i am told! History: Bought the car last summer, drove it over 200 miles to get it home and then used it throughout the summer with "little" in the way of issues right through to November when it was SORN (covered ~700 miles total). During last year I had an handful of cutouts when coasting to a stop, i.e. rolling up to a junction with the clutch in. Rev's would just die and way and it cut out. No pops or bangs and would restart on the first turn of the key. Being so intermittent it was hard to really do anything about it. Garaged over winter and check over of the engine bay / fluids etc has revealed nothing out of the ordinary except for a slight weep coming from the large "grub screw" in the thermostat housing. Yesterday: Nice day, so a trip over to see Bugman's Sport 250 build. 12 miles each way mostly urban and through towns but no issues at all. Started first time and didn't skip a beat. Everything up to temp and behaving normally, although no really spirited acceleration / driving. Today: Another nice day, so time for a lunch time run out. Started first time, but as soon as went to pull out of the garage the revs dropped away and it stalled with a weezy cough/pop at the end. Restart and same result. Third time lucky and it sat idling on the drive whilst i closed the garage door and strapped in. Set off and all seemed fine, until the bottom of the hill approx 1 mile down the road when it cut out rolling up to a junction (as per the description above). Started first time and off i went. A mixture of 30/40 mph roads heading out to the countryside, and issues started to arise. Constant throttle approx 2000 - 3000 rpm and the revs would die away, sometimes by 500rpm, sometimes more, this would last for a few seconds and then the revs would pick up and i was accelerating away. As i got out onto the open road, this became more frequent and seemed to be worse under load i.e. harder acceleration / up a hill. Got to a convenient turn around point and it cut out again. Proved more challenging to start and cranked for longer, requiring some throttle before it finally started and the idle was rough until i blipped the throttle, which seemed to settle it down. Managed to make it home with more of the same issues, of loosing revs and cutting out. Once home on the drive, it idled fine, rev'd freely and holding the throttle open at ~3000rpm for 30 secs / 1 minute, blipping the throttle etc etc didn't cause any further issue. Again another check over the engine bay and nothing out of the ordinary. Oil pressure was there and behaving normally, engine was hot, but water temp normal with fan cutting in and out as appropriate. So, where to start: Fuel: full tank of fuel at the outset, but seemed to behave a little like low fuel / fuel pressure. Air leak: Is it sucking air from somewhere it shouldn't be when under load. Electrical: Sensors / Coil pack / Plugs / HT leads? Or a worn wire / loose connection causing it to short / break connection when under load (the roads were also pretty bumpy). Any thoughts on where to start and likely culprits would be gratefully received! Cheers Bob
  11. Beaker_Bob

    N YORKS THUNDER DAY AT ELVINGTON AIR MUSEUM. 29.04.18

    Hi Geoffrey, I’d love to come to this so count me in. However, I’m a little weather dependant as I still don’t have any wet weather gear and it won’t have arrived by then!!! Cheers Bob
  12. Beaker_Bob

    Gear box type

    Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
  13. Beaker_Bob

    Gear box type

    Nothing is ever simple eh...! From memory the kit was purchased in early 2009 and first registered later that year (I’m away from home at the moment so can’t check the original build receipt). Yes it’s a wide body with FW bodywork. However, having recently just had the interior in bits and reinstalled the seats, the passenger side is definitely narrower than the drivers side. It had me swearing as the clearance around the seat was notably less making fitting the seat a pain in the backside.....!
  14. Beaker_Bob

    Gear box type

    That’s great. Thanks @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary Am I right in thinking that means the chassis tunnel is narrower to suit the type 9 box? When I say narrower I mean narrower than the mt75/sport turbo/s2000 chassis tunnels? cheers Bob
  15. Beaker_Bob

    Gear box type

    I have spent the winter tinkering and slowly starting to ascertain the exact spec of my car. However I’m still not entirely certain of the gearbox. I think it’s a type 9 box mated to a 2.0 Zetec Blacktop. However I have not had chance to get it high enough in the air to have a good look at the gear box from underneath. Is the shift pattern definitive of the gear box type? The shift pattern is as follows with reverse being push down to engage: R 1 3 5 2 4 If shift pattern is not enough, are there ID plates located on the box that define it? cheers Bob
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