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BugMan last won the day on November 24

BugMan had the most liked content!

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About BugMan

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    Learner Driver

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  1. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    THANKS bud, crimp tool to the ready
  2. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Just been told by Ian at WF (by the way a very VERY helpful chap) I've got in my kit of parts, a Blue 90 Deg elbow and a special cable for this purpose. And that was a bit of a "Light Bulb" moment for me as I then remember wondering way that odd looking cable was for. Unfortunately for me its also a PTFE tape job, which I generally suck at, so going to refine my sills on this. Just had a look at YouTube and think I've been under using the stuff as >7 turns around and between 10 to 12 seems to be an average. I've also notices a special RED fitting on the FW long-rage tank which removes the filter idea The tank mounting bracket came with some blue sponge spacers with is from the manufacture, and are scrap And thats what the self adhesive tape in my kit is for, as per the FW manual, 2nd "Light Bulb" moment in 1 day
  3. Fuel Tank Breather

    Are, after posting the question, I remembered (in bed in the middle of the night) that there was a RED fitting on the top of the tank. I'll investigate that later today. So if that is the case, does this negate the need for a filter in the breather line that I've seen other use? Once again thanks to all
  4. Fuel Tank Breather

    Just looking at the tank setup on my build, and seen a few peoples builds using a fuel filter in the breather tube. Thinking about it has anybody use a non-return valve, like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fuel-Line-Return-Breather-Rollover/dp/B003UVZPI8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1512948393&sr=8-7&keywords=Fuel+Tank+Breather Take any feedback on this as an idea? Steve
  5. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Looking at that site AdgeC, I found this, does anybody know if its a direct fir for the fuel tank output? https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/90-degree-fuel-hose-unions-1-8npt-to-10mm-each-fac-st-u-6
  6. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Thanks team for all the comments, its gratifying when your peers approve of what you come up with in isolation in your own garage or workshop. I have to say a great big thank you to EVERYBODY on the forum, it is a MASSIVE resource of ideas and knowledge along with my local group, and it makes trying to figure out what is the best way to do something . On the handbrake switch wires AdgeC, I've not even looked at them yet, any chance you can remember the colour of the ground or is it obvious? I've added in a 2nd spade connector (Brass 90 deg) under the S2000 switch mounting, so was intending to use both wires, on the assumption that was what was required to work on the WF loom. Yea I have a "lofty" dream to get the chassis off the current stands, and down onto the jack stands i have ready over the brake, when the rest of my family come round. They have been invited for a buffet lunch, little do they know my plan
  7. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Like that position for the pump, I may well follow that idea I had not even though about the top rail. I've not gone for anti-roll bars, but its good to see where they would go, whats bolted to the back of the horizontal plate normally used for the pump isolator?
  8. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Thanks IanK (Bagpuss), I'm a bit fussy about things being right and your help, while it caused a bit of work was a FANTASTIC idea, and I really appreciate the help. Any advice on the fittings for the fuel pump and tank?
  9. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Saturday, 9th December 2017 So, after a trip to the local Screwfix to get some more self-amalgamating rubber tape black 25MM X 3M, Stock code (2115V) the run to the rear of the car loom was put back into its split conduit, and then painstakingly wrapped in self-amalgamating along its length to the point for the fuel sender, and pump. https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-amalgamating-rubber-tape-black-25mm-x-3m/2115vThis was then cable tied in-place. Top one one, seems straight forward, but used a UNF and a load of washers to get them in straight, but the bottom long stud is an interference fit, which I’m not happy with, so this I think needs a bit of Dremel work. Thats it for now, back to work next week, but week after my Xmss starts, can't wait Now I’m taking a wild guess here that the loom was designed for the FW build, which has a slightly different run than I have used, as to get the first set of connectors in the right place I ended up with a loop, which was clipped and cable tied up the diagonal corner tube. The loom was then tracked back to the middle and then after final bit of tape work, out to the other corner. Having spoken to Ian at WF during the week I confirmed the oil I have is for the diff, and that just over 1 litre was required to fill it up, so it dribbles out of the filler hole (explains the 2 bottles). So, this again required some head scratching on how I was going to get the oil into the Diff, but after a bit of looking around my scrap in the garage I found some small-bore fuel line, probably from one of my motorbikes, which was a nice tight fit into a funnel with some gaffer tape around the outside. This was then attached to a wooden block, and shortened to the right length and this turned out to be a FANTASTIC idea, as it took ages to the oil into the Diff. Now I just about got the 1L bottle in before the oil dribbled out. Note to self – check this again once the Diff is easy to turn I then started looking at where to mount the fuel tank pump and filter, including an extensive look at the forum to see what others have done. Seen a few ideas, not made my mind up on what to do yet, would take any advice? So last bit of work was looking at the fuel line runs, and what I had in my box of piping from FW. Found a length of ½” bore piping to go from the tank outlet to the fuel pump inlet, which seems quite long, which is marked FUEL LINE on the outside and is the only bit supplied. Now I found what I assume is the fitting to go into the fuel tank, as it’s the right bore size to match the piping which is straight. So here is another question, has anybody used a 90 Deg fitting on the tank outlet, as this would IMHO be a better idea and/or any fittings to go on the output of the fuel pump, toward the filter? Be cool for some links to where people have got them from, as pipe sizes are not something I know much about. Also do you need to use anything to seal the various fittings as my experience with PTFE tape have never been that successful? Decided to stop on the fuel for now, and look at the handbrake cable runs, and dug out the LH side disk upright, and then found that there needs to be some small spacer tubes that fit in the ball joints that adjust the rear, to make them the right size for the UNF bolt’s.
  10. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Final bit of work was to clean up all my work, stud-lock in the threaded bar, clean up the S2000 handbrake to get rid of all the crud, and then applied a coat of my nice silver. Friday, 8th December 2017 Had a little bit of time on Friday night as I was playing taxi driver for the wife and friends who were out on the p*** so the handbrake was assembled, and pictured. Also did a little bit of checking on the switch, which I’ll convert to spade crimps from the Ford one on the loom currently. Have to say I’m really happy with this piece of work, took some time and head scratching, but I think it is the business. My only question is, is the switch for the handbrake going to work on the WF loom, and the Ford KA switch is fully insulated, where as the S2000 switch is between feed and ground?
  11. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    I then went back to the S2000 handbrake. As you can see there is quite a “step” between the front and rear mountings. I had bought a length of 30mm by about 6mm steel from B&Q a week or so ago, to make up some spacers to level off the mountings so 2 of these were cut and cleaned up on my home-made linisher (belt sander – upside-down). Now the original idea was to have these 2 spacers bolted to the frame in the tunnel, using the original home for the Ford KA handbrake at the back and then try to find somebody toe weld the brackets a) together b) to the S2000 rear mounting. However, when looking at this while mounted in the car, I had a Light Bulb moment, and realised I could just swing the 2 spacer plates under the 2nd hole in the S2000 handbrake – Problem solved and NO WELDING REQUIRED. So that’s 1 problem solved. I then used the Ford KA handbrake to measure out the movement on my bench from fully closed, to open, so I knew what I was aiming at. After a bit of head scratching I realised that the strip steel I have would fit into the pivot point on the S2000. So, after a WHOLE lot of cutting, drilling and grinding with my off-hand 6” grinder I produced this bracket. The really tricky bit was drilling and tapping the M6 hole in the end of the steel I had spent a good 2 hours making. So, I then took the bracket, pivot plug and tensioning nut from the KA handbrake, and the longer threaded section from the S2000 along with a square M6 nut to make up the finished article. You can see this gives about 25mm of movement on the handbrake, which I’m assuming will be sufficient given this is a popular switch from the “crappy” looking ford KA handbrake to the Superb looking S2000. A MASSIVE thanks to “IanK (Bagpuss)” for his help in finding me one on eBay
  12. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Same process was then applied to the LH side, and just to start to have a look at spacings dropped in the long-range fuel tank.
  13. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    I then decided to start mounting in the rear suspension arms, with copper slip, and then the output shaft from the diff. Diff screws had a bit of copper grease, on the bodies, and then screw lock applied to the threaded section. This was then mounted up, and torqued to the required. I have a suitable smaller torque wrench, but the figure required in the FW manual, seems very VERY high. I managed to get them very tight indeed, and am happy its solid, and any excess was wiped off the ends of the threads. I then used an old boot lase to hold the 2 arms and the shaft at a decent angle, noting that the UNF bolts on the end of the arms are NOT torqued up, again as per the FW manual.
  14. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Firstly, after advice have decided not to fit the fuel isolator switch, seems like a bit of an issue fitting this to a car, as my estate alone has speed bumps all over the place – so once again thanks ot the community. Wednesday, 6th December 2017 The wife and I have had this week on holiday, although she had to work today, so I had a pretty good run at things today. After help from the forum it looks like my proposed wire runs are OK, and should work, so first step was drilling more holes in my frame. Most difficult of these was the one under the rail as the loom emerges from the tunnel. Then out and along the rail with the RH side brake pipe, then down the front of the box section, and out toward the corner.
  15. Just bought my first kit car

    Welcome to the club, nice engine bay