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Nick Mace

WSCC Member
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    343
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About Nick Mace

  • Rank
    Learner Driver

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Westfield FW Special Edition
  • My Location
    Hampshire

Recent Profile Visitors

524 profile views
  1. So far

    I should think it would be good enough. I wonder whether setting the string up from the centre of the front and rear wheels means that the front and rear wheels on each side end up being better aligned with one another? To be honest, doing it with string (which is what I did) seems horribly inaccurate anyway! I had a flashback of doing that when I was letting rip on the Autobahn in Germany last Summer! I slowed down after that...
  2. So far

    Ah - that's probably not something to do by eye!! I did my wheel alignment from a reference line outside of the car measured from the centre of the front and rear wheels (assuming you have widetrack front suspension). I made two lines either side of the car and measured the front and rear of each wheel rim from that line to set the toe angles. The chassis may be accurately made enough to measure from. I expect it will be close enough to pass the giggle test for IVA (which is what my aim was, although I never did get round to getting it done properly...).
  3. So far

    Although you can't assume that the body is symmetrical! I think you need to fit it and adjust until it looks right (which might mean it's slightly off centre). I take the same approach with curtain rails - sometimes you have to ignore what the spirit level is telling you and go with what looks right!
  4. Hope it goes well.
  5. It can be done single-handed but I wouldn’t recommend it first time you do it (which might with luck be the last time as well!).
  6. Velcro

    Velcro’s a rip off in my experience
  7. Yes, although if you plan to fit the front ones (which go on the outside of the chassis at the end of the footwells) you can't really do it once the bodywork is on and the engine is in as it's impossible to drill the holes. This is why mine are permanently left to one side! The rear ones can certainly be fitted later on.
  8. For the nuts, you need to stop the stud turning. Can you get one end on with some threads showing, and then put another nut in that end to lock it? With the battery tray, I went with option 1 which does make it fiddly getting the nut and bolt in for the strap. I can’t immediately think of any problem with option 2.
  9. Catch can

    No, the cap doesn’t seem to breathe. Yes, perhaps a few small holes is the way to go. To be honest, I’ll be surprised if I collect much in it anyway.
  10. Catch can

    I’m in the process of fitting one of these catch cans. It will have pipes from the crank and cam breathers but the can itself doesn’t breathe and I think it should. I’m proposing to drill a hole in the lid (10mm say) and glue some foam sponge to the inside to prevent the contents splashing out. Any issues with that? An alternative would be to simply drill a much smaller hole (eg 2mm). That would look neater and I doubt it would splash but wonder if it would breathe enough? Any thoughts welcomed. thanks
  11. The Caterham Has Landed

    Looks great. Hope it goes well. What has happened to the silencer?
  12. Zetec Throttle Bodies

    Hmmm. Tempting...
  13. Zetec Throttle Bodies

    Without the bonnet?!
  14. Zetec Throttle Bodies

    Finished installing the ITBs today. Uploading the new map to the ECU, calibrating the TPS and balancing the throttles was more straightforward than I had expected. Just a case of following the instructions from OMEX. The weather wasn’t good enough to take it for a run, and in any case I might leave the (FW) bonnet off until I fit the catch can I’ve bought, but my initial thought was that the throttle was a lot more responsive - much more free revving if you know what I mean. Fitting the ITBs was a fun project and I’m looking forward to seeing how it runs.
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