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AndrewOBW

WSCC Member
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    233
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14 In Build

About AndrewOBW

  • Rank
    Learner Driver

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Westfield chassis with some 1.6 MX5 bits
  • My Location
    Leamington Spa

Recent Profile Visitors

607 profile views
  1. 3.6 MX5 Diff

    Looks to be still there. See if you can join this group and then try the link again after: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1549636505261984/
  2. 3.6 MX5 Diff

    I know these are the preferred ratio by many and quite hard to come by so if anyone is looking for one, this has popped up for sale on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1549636505261984/permalink/2525951090963849/?sale_post_id=2525951090963849 I don't know or have any info on the seller. Just spotted it and thought I'd share!
  3. I can't quite believe it myself.....

    If you're looking for a donor, the Facebook group below regularly had bargains popping up that have failed MOTs due to rust. Also good for finding spare parts. Worth joining and keeping an eye out: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1549636505261984/
  4. SOLD - MX5 Mazda SDV Sump Baffle

    I'll have this please if it's not been claimed already! PM on the way.
  5. Indicator pods

    I'll have them please if they're still going?
  6. Dash Refurb / Wrapping

    That's pretty close to what I'm after although I had planned to leave in the two "rows" of switches in the middle. The dash I've got does still have all of the vinyl intact (I haven't attempted to strip it at all yet) which should help to make it a bit easier in that regard.
  7. Dash Refurb / Wrapping

    I bought a second hand contoured dash off a member here a while ago. I'm planning on using a digital gauge so will need to modify it anyway as they are supplied with two cut outs for the analogue dials. After I do that I'd like to get the dash re-covered, preferably in some sort of suede/alcantara style material. Can anyone recommend anywhere in the Warwickshire/Birmingham area that's any good for that sort of work? Otherwise, materials and instructions for how to do this stuff myself would be perfect!
  8. Westfield IVA Steering wheel & Boss Kit

    No hassle at all Chris. Best of luck with your IVA!
  9. Another productive weekend. Diff is now fitted and I've now got my brakes rebuilt. Only had time to fit one of them though today. Well pleased with how the brakes and the quantum dampers look together too! I know the colour isn't a perfect match but it's about as close as I could find in high temperature spray paint! (Ignore the mess in the background!) While I was around working on the diff I had another look at the bolts on the roll bar. They're only just coming through the nyloc when torqued up. Although I know this will provide a perfectly good clamp load, the IVA man might not be quite so trusting so I might swap these out with the slightly longer Allen head bolts that came with the bar too. He heads on those sit slightly higher so I'll just have to hope they don't cause me any hassle when it gets to bodywork fitting time! The red lines are just torque markers. There seems to be a lot of steps in the build manual which state "don't torque tighten at this stage" so I'm putting a stripe of marker onto every joint that I torque off. That way later in the build if I spot any blank ones I'll know to get the torque wrench out.
  10. Westfield IVA Steering wheel & Boss Kit

    I can't speak for mega s2000 I'm afraid. If it takes a standard Westfield steering column I'd expect it to fit though. The Mazda SDV uses the donor upper column though which is why there's a difference. I don't think I've got a boss kit for it but here's the wheel itself: I live only a few minutes from stoneleigh if you're planning on going so you're welcome to take a look in person and see if it meets your needs then!
  11. Westfield IVA Steering wheel & Boss Kit

    I've got a Westfield steering wheel I bought off another member for the same purpose before realising it didn't fit the Mazda column. Cost me £15 so yours for the same if you want it? It's navy but if it's just for IVA it hopefully won't matter if it doesn't match your colour scheme!
  12. Tools required for build ?

    You can save a bit of money on the rivnut tool by just making one. Essentially all you need is a piece of flat bar with the right hole sizes drilled in it and a corresponding nut and bolt. Not as fast to use but it leaves you £30 odd extra in your pocket. ETA link: https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/donstechnologyblog.wordpress.com/2016/02/25/diy-homemade-rivnut-tool/amp/
  13. Tools required for build ?

    Haha, fair point! It's definitely worth having at least one spare anyway so just keep topping up if you break one! While I think of it too, don't attempt to do the build with only battery powered tools unless you've got plenty of spare batteries. For the bits you're going to need most (drill and angry grinder) go with mains or pneumatic. I foolishly stuck with my battery angle grinder. I'm now at the point where I (hopefully) haven't got that much cutting left to do so I don't want to fork out for a new one but it definitely added a lot of time waiting for it to charge when it ran out!
  14. Tools required for build ?

    Invest in good ones. Makes the job easier and saves you hassle of dealing with snapped/blunt bits. I bought two DeWalt cobalt 4.1mm (the ones with a stepped tip) bits for all of the rivet holes and pilot holes too. I'm still on the first one now.
  15. Slightly hampered by a broken wrist at the moment but I made it back into the garage anyway for a surprisingly productive weekend. Front dampers and uprights fitted without any issues. Sadly, the rears weren't so easy. The upper bracket on the chassis for the left rear damper was splayed out in such a way that with the bolt in, the threads were just short of the nyloc. I should have just ordered some longer bolts but I foolishly thought that if I tightened it up it would be fine. Sadly, I've now stripped the threads off the bolt (with surprising little force) so I'll have to get the angry grinder out to remove them. Longer ones ordered this time! After that, to free up a little space in the garage, I decided to get the roll over bar fitted. Nothing too exciting in that. Test fit, mark up, remove, drill, fit. I put a little hammerite on the bare metal bits after drilling. Next was the rack. I bought some of the aluminium clamps from Westfield a while back. They come with two bits of nylon. I assume the thinner piece goes under the bigger clamp and the thicker one under the smaller clamp, however even using the thicker one there is still clearance under the smaller (nearside) clamp. I'll have to put an extra bit of spacer under that one for it to fit correctly. I'll try to post up some pretty pictures tomorrow!
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