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Peter (Monty)

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About Peter (Monty)

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    Average Joe Driver
  • Birthday June 14

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  1. Peter (Monty)

    Peter's S2000 Build

    Power feeds to the relays will be individually fused, either in the new fuse box or connected up to the existing fused feeds for the lamps etc. As for the switches (which ultimately power the relay coils), should I power most of these through a single fuse (2A for the switches)? I don't know what the current draw for a relay coil is.
  2. Peter (Monty)

    Peter's S2000 Build

    Another schematic done, for the headlamps and position lamps, using another one of the rotary switches and a toggle button for main beam. I know, I've gone relay mad Sidelights are fed by permanent live so will work with the ignition off, but headlamps are switched live. Telltales are fed off the low current side of the relays. Edit: added in the rear fog using @CL290005's solution here.
  3. Peter (Monty)

    Vinyl covered kick strips...needed for IVA?

    From my memory of the side panel it should easily meet the 2.5mm radius requirements. The part I'm less sure about is the raw GRP edge of the inside return of the side panels which hooks over the chassis rail. I think this gets covered up by interior side panels but I don't think everyone fits these. If you don't have interior side panels, is some edge trim needed on the edge of the side panel?
  4. Peter (Monty)

    Classic Special Edition Kit New Member 1st Build

    I got a set of three as well, I've been very pleased with them, these ones: Hakkain 3pcs 4-12/20/32mm Large HSS Steel Step Cone Drill Titanium Bit Hole Cutter https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B017VJ47RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QdDbBbF8K7YX6
  5. Peter (Monty)

    Tim's Mega S2000 Build

    At least people won't be able to claim they weren't aware of your presence
  6. Peter (Monty)

    Peter's S2000 Build

    Thanks Ian. I know that's why it's like that, but as I'm redoing a bunch of it for the Emerald it seems sensible to change it. Am I right in thinking the easiest way to tap into unfused switched live (to feed new supplies through the new fuse box) would be from one of the white wires in fuse box B? And the brown wire for permanent live?
  7. Peter (Monty)

    Peter's S2000 Build

    I keep looking at the fuel pump wiring route, from the relay, into the engine bay, through a connector into the power harness, through another connector into the chassis harness, then back through the tunnel and to the pump... It seems so convoluted! Would it be better to extricate the fuel pump feed and bring it straight into the scuttle with the other dash wiring, or am I making unnecessary work for myself? Apart from it being tidier, reducing the number of connections where possible is surely sensible...
  8. Peter (Monty)

    Peter's S2000 Build

    Thanks both, will give it some thought.
  9. Peter (Monty)

    Peter's S2000 Build

    @IanK (Bagpuss) I'm going to have several (heater controller, speedo signal, and gauges)... all of those are 50-100% done though, whereas it feels like using relays will be much easier to get up and running than a transistor-based power distribution circuit...
  10. Peter (Monty)

    Peter's S2000 Build

    I put together a circuit diagram for the hazard switch. I spent a little while thinking about how to do it with fewer relays but decided it makes sense; one per set of indicators, the flasher relay, and one to drive it which essentially replaces the legwork done by the rather clever but slightly odd stock WF hazard switch. Any of the three switches can activate the feed to the flasher relay, although the hazard switch is fed by permanent live, whereas the left and right indicator switches are on switched live. The flasher output is then gated by a relay per side of the car, which are opened by their respective switches or both by the hazard switch. Reverse current flow is prevented with some diodes which as it developed ended up looking just like a bridge rectifier, probably not coincidence Edit: added the telltales into the grounds of the relays
  11. Peter (Monty)

    Peter's S2000 Build

    Today, it was on my phone touchscreen on an aeroplane so yes, a little wobbly
  12. Peter (Monty)

    Peter's S2000 Build

    Following on from the relays thread, I checked with my switch supplier and my switches are rated for a meager 2 amps. So I think I'll just relay everything up. This will actually be better anyway as with the rotary switches I bought, I'm using them in a slightly different way from what's probably intended. They are DP3T switches with 6 pins; two common, two normally open, and two normally closed. However while I want to use them in an 0-1-2 configuration (for lights, wipers, and heater fan), these switches are 1-0-2, where one NC pin is connected in each of the left and right positions, and both NO pins are connected in the central position. I can wire up position 1 to its NO pin but this means that position one will still be on when position 2 is selected. I think I've checked on the forums before that sidelights are still on when dipped beam is on, so for lights this will be okay. For the others, I can use relays to get the behaviour that I want, while also removing the load current from the switches. I've drawn up a couple of circuits. First, the heater. This uses one 5-pin and one 4-pin relay. When position 2 is selected, the feed to the speed 1 relay is cut off so only one speed is ever active at one time. Then the wiper motor. My understanding of the Lucas motor is that to self-park, you need to connect the Park and Speed 1 pins on the motor (this is what the Westfield wiper switch does in position 0), otherwise feed 12V to either speed 1 or 2. The motor then drives itself at speed 1 until the park switch makes it turn itself off. This circuit uses the same approach as the heater circuit, but using two 5 pin relays. Using the extra pin, the speed 1 relay connects the speed 1 and park pins on the motor when the switch is in position zero, to make it self-park. While doing a bit of research I have found suggestions that spinning loads like the wiper motor or heater fan, when the supply is disconnected, will keep spinning due to inertia for a short time and act as a generator, possibly putting a small voltage back into the relay, which may be damaged by this over time. The countermeasure is to connect the motor feed to ground with a diode? Not sure if I explained that correctly, but is it something I need to worry about?
  13. Peter (Monty)

    OK, I give up

    It wasn't me
  14. Peter (Monty)

    OK, I give up

    @Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO I have seen that photo so many times, I have to assume it's one of the only ones that was ever fitted
  15. Peter (Monty)

    Peter's S2000 Build

    Thanks both, I'll check it out. I did notice when stripping the Westfield loom that the tape was non-adhesive. However the Honda loom was definitely done with adhesive (and the wires are correspondingly sticky). A quick search for loom tape brings up a million results for Tesa fabric tape, isnt that adhesive as well though?

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