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About Monty

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    Average Joe Driver
  • Birthday June 14

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  1. Rich's S2000 Build

    Rich I think I did mine very similar to yours but had to adjust as the large loop out of the union clashed with the diff flange, which sits fairly centered in the triangle made by that bent round bar. I ended up tightening up the bend radius. Adge's solution is quite nice for avoiding that.
  2. The Nerdy video thread.

    @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary I graduated a few years ago and we were still taught the same Although the overall strength of the billet material might be higher I would be interested to know if the machined part also matches a forging in fatigue, especially with rotating stresses.
  3. 1.6 Ecoboost Build

    @David_Thame are you sure? What type of steering column do you have?
  4. Play in Bottom Ball Joint Front Suspension

    That sounds like a lot of play, it should be rigid. Like you say, for the money I'd just change them anyway. The Maxi ball joints from RD are the right ones, although I think I had to slightly drill out the holes in them by 0.5mm or something.
  5. Fuel cut-off

    I started that thread link below.
  6. Fuel cut-off

    Given that all fuel injection engines are pressurised and how many people here have gone through IVA without one, my instinctive reaction was that that's total nonsense. I then checked the IVA manual and I can find no such requirement - my secondary response was the same.
  7. Peter's S2000 Build

    What's a good way to boot the starter and alternator terminals? I thought about nut covers but the existing M8 Japanese nuts are 12mm spanner size instead of 13mm. Would it be easiest to swap these out for standard M8 and use a nut cover?
  8. Peter's S2000 Build

    Popped out after dinner to get a couple more tasks done. Finished my passenger footrest: And with that done and good access no longer needed, the ECU tray is on at last too.
  9. Peter's S2000 Build

    I decided to make some headway on the scuttle today. As I got a starter kit, my scuttle didnt have wiper holes drilled or heater plenum fitted. So started by drilling out the wiper holes and filing them to size. I also trimmed back two cutouts for the wiring loom coming up through the tunnel. I got a free bag of M6 big head fasteners from work so can use them wherever I feel like. So marked up and bonded in place for the wiper motor and heater, and then fixed in the plenum. I'm abroad again this week so this will dry completely, then I'll fibreglass over all of them. Here's a photo of my final starter/alternator wiring. I went with Justin's fuse position as it was easiest to drill and leaves more space for the coolant plumbing (which I have changed again but think I have planned out now). And finally remembered to put the shorter ancillaries belt on.
  10. Peter's S2000 Build

    Which way up do the wiper wheelboxes go? There seems to be enough room to fit them either way around. The FW manual says to fit as per the left one below if heater plenum is fitted. I also can't get the two angled tubes to clamp nicely on the scuttle top, the wiper spindle can't quite achieve the necessary mounting angle, does this matter?
  11. Fuel hose for injection

    @Mole I'd think the return hose would be fairly accessible through the left wheel arch, although you may need to remove the damper.
  12. Peter's S2000 Build

    Thankfully was able to fit the gearbox speed sensor without moving anything, although it's pretty tight in the tunnel! However also found my crank sensor in my box of engine bits checked behind the water pump and indeed, there was a piece of tissue blocking up the hole where the sensor in my hand should be. So, spent an hour stripping back the ancillaries to be able to fit it.
  13. You can also shorten it fully, photo here.
  14. Red is the one to cut off. I think the brackets may make things cramped in the tunnel, I never reattached mine after initial removal. Just make sure you have enough loom attachment points fitted on the underside of the tunnel top.
  15. Peter's S2000 Build

    I decided I could bend the brake line enough to get the necessary clearance to the catch can breather. Not the best photo, the actual gap is well over 5mm. Power harness is in place (loose fit, needs some tidying up), as are the positive battery to starter cable and the engine earth strap. Those last two are pretty hefty, I got them made to measure from a custom service on eBay and went for 35mm2 (240A rated). That means I have three eyelets on the starter motor terminal (two from the power harness, and one from the battery), three eyelets on the earth stud near the washer bottle (chassis harness, power harness, and engine earth strap), and just the one on the alternator terminal. Does that sound right? Where is a good place to put the main fuse? My harness seems most comfortable with it on the diagonal chassis member, on the opposite side to the earth stud. It would happily go further back towards the gearbox bellhousing but there's no space to mount it there. I'm worried that I don't have much space to drill holes for it with the engine in place. Also remembered that I never refitted the gearbox speedo sensor, so need to try and fit that from underneath tomorrow if possible! For the three connectors between the chassis and power harnesses, I previously had these accessible over the top of the bellhousing. I've now tucked them under the scuttle.