Jump to content

Sunbeam Lotus

WSCC Member
  • Content count

    295
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Sunbeam Lotus last won the day on March 29 2017

Sunbeam Lotus had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

114 Very Good

About Sunbeam Lotus

  • Rank
    Learner Driver
  • Birthday 22/03/1958

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Westfield XI - All Done and On The Road!
  • My Location
    Oxfordshire

Recent Profile Visitors

975 profile views
  1. Ford 4-speed Type E Gearbox Wanted

    Hi, Tony, Thanks for the heads up. I think that these will be well outside the budget as Julian is looking for a standard box to be uprated so he knows exactly what's in it and how it will be overhauled. Simon
  2. Ford 4-speed Type E Gearbox Wanted

    Hi, Tony, Thanks for the check - typo now corrected. Have you any idea how much would be wanted for that box? Many Thanks - Simon
  3. Ford 4-speed Type E Gearbox Wanted

    Hi, I am co-driving for a friend in a historic stage rally specification Mark One Ford Escort Pinto. The gearbox in the car is nowhere near 100% and, as we don't know its history, Julian is looking to start afresh and have a new competition spec box engineered. We need a standard 4 speed Type E as a donor box - do any of you guys please have one sitting under a bench somewhere? From Google / Burton Power (we are both from Sunbeam backgrounds rather than Fords)! Ford 4 speed single rail gearbox, used for more demanding applications than the Type 3 box. It is available most often without an integral bellhousing, although later boxes (usually found in Sierras) had integral bellhousings. Cast iron maincase with alloy tail housing. Often referred to as the ‘Rocket’ box. (Rocket is the name of the original close-ratio competition gearbox that was based on the Type E). 1" x 23 spline input shaft. Fitted in: Ford Capri 1.6 / 2.0 82 on Ford Cortina Mk3 2.0 Ford Cortina Mk4 / Mk5 1.6GT / 2.0 / 2.3 Ford Escort RS2000 Mk1 / Mk2 Ford Escort RS Mexico Mk2 Ford Sierra 1.6 / 2.0 Many Thanks Simon
  4. jonjh1964's XI Build

    I picked this point up from one of the forum threads. It was not really a chore to install as I took a Jubilee clip, drilled a hole in it, passed a wire through and soldered it then installed the rivnut to accept an eye at the other end of the short wire. When I was asked the direct question, I was glad I had! Simon
  5. jonjh1964's XI Build

    Hi, Jon, My exhaust also struck the edge of the opening through the inner wing panel. A combination of making raised engine mount brackets, filing the hole and thumping the pipe at the appropriate point was needed to sort it out! I ran the rubber edging round to the point at which the underside of the rear clam steps up. I did not cover the hinge end stops and wasn't picked up for that, but my over-engineered and elaborate rear bumper / fog / reversing light / reflector support probably meant that the test "jobbie" couldn't get anywhere near them! It might be worth relocating the flasher relay as close as possible to the end of the dash. In the unlikely event of it failing, you may be able to just reach in and change it (from the quadrant panel) rather than have to remove the scuttle to do the job? I put mine into the quadrant area for this reason. Tidy wiring is for life and not just for IVA! It will yield dividends with respect to reliability. I did my initial shakedown and running in of my car with a pair of SUs. The throttle cable run was very similar to yours. I did not worry about securing it as it was a short term measure. My (Weber) throttle cable runs right round the front of the engine bay and was easy to clip / support. I would say that your SU one running across the rocker cover may need a little thought to avoid kinking and chafing of the inner cable where it goes into the ferrule on the carburettor. It may well be doing this on its own as the bonnet closes anyway! Using a long cable ferrule would, of course, exaggerate this issue. My scuttle sits down fine against the bulkhead - but I have set the pedal box top cover to crimp the scuttle back. Have you got a specific earth for the fuel tank (not clear in the photographs)? I was asked about this at the test and, because I showed my tester the below photograph, I was saved the chore of removing the scuttle to show him. Your car does look good so you're well on the way. Simon
  6. Building my Eleven

    This really is good news. The two Classic Car weekly papers have both run articles yesterday so they should, hopefully, motivate that even larger group against similar threats to their vehicles. Maybe the haste in which this threat has appeared will also be the demise of anything controversial as they would appear not to want any delays in implementing the legislation. Power to the (kit and classic car driving) People!
  7. Building my Eleven

    My fingers are tightly crossed on the last point - to the extent that it is hampering my typing speed!
  8. Live axle brake query

    Hi, All, Chrysler 180 calipers were a pretty standard fit to convert Talbot Avengers / Sunbeams to four wheel discs in the 1980s. I fitted them to my Sunbeam Lotus 25 years ago and they are fine, other than really needing hydraulic actuation to make them any good for handbrake turns! Yours do look like Chrysler 180 calipers and I had to have the hub flanges turned down a little to get the discs to fit on my standard Sunbeam Lotus halfshafts. Pad availability is not an issue - Alan Brown at Questmead in Rochdale (01706 363939) has pads in differing grades and is a super source of excellent information and advice. Skip Brown Cars (01829) 720492 sorted out an issue I had (by totally stripping, understanding and rebuilding) and may have some bits and pieces for them lying around. They can certainly get these calipers overhauled / restored. Calipers do occasionally come up on eBay and today two companies are listing seals kits for them. Personally, I would not want to go back to drums. Sierra calipers are nearly as old as the Chrysler 180 ones (but are available as kits including bolt on brackets) so it maybe worth looking at something like VW Golf Mk4 / Audi TT / Skoda Octavia / Rover 214 calipers - all more modern cable operated calipers that are commonly used - but you may have bracket and cable issues to get over to fit them. Simon
  9. Building my Eleven

    Hi, Rob, I would have thought that a catalyst equipped Zetec ought to be able to be made to pass the IVA and subsequent MOTs. What I don't know is how the power output would be affected when tuned with an emissions bias. Simon
  10. Latest IVA emissions proposal

    I had exactly the same yesterday and it has not left me brimming with anything - let alone confidence. Simon
  11. XI rear look post IVA - Opinions please

    Hi, Nick, Well done on the IVA. Here's an image of my car. I have used a motorcycle rear / numberplate light (that I fitted as most of the racing Lotus Elevens seem to have them). It is wired in with the side lights but I don't (currently) use the brake light. The plate is rather sloped, but I haven't been pulled on it at this time. I did see one Westfield Eleven at a show who had made a simple folded alloy sheet plinth to bring it to vertical. If needed, I could soon make one of those to sort the slope - with unequal sides due to the random shape of the rear clam! The fog/reversing lights are readily available from the usual suppliers and as I use the car at night on occasion, I am glad I fitted the reversing lights - though I haven't yet had to use the fog light (other than to reinforce the reversing light in dark places). My reflectors were inspired by Porsche 356 ones. The originals have lovely chrome plinths but come in at around £180 per pair so were immediately discounted! I got mine from Design 911.co.uk - Code: 64473150100/1 (the price seems to have gone up 20% in the last eighteen months) but I think could actually be made more affordable from bike reflectors with extended rear threadings plus cut alloy sleeves to bring them to vertical. Simon
  12. jonjh1964's XI Build

    Well done, John, Your seat bolts adventure is a typical hiccup along the way that we all come across despite best laid plans. I used to fall foul of over-engineering and spending hours when minutes should have done. I'll know for next time - whenever / whatever that may be................. or possibly not! Simon
  13. jonjh1964's XI Build

    Top Job, Jon!
  14. jonjh1964's XI Build

    Hi, Jon, The lower leading edge of the clam did not cause any raised eyebrows at IVA - but I did have some rubber with me as Nick has suggested. Below is an image of how my clam was when collected the kit from Kingswinford. I made up a cover box for my solenoid - I had "booted" the terminals but, due to the number of cables, they did not sit down neatly. I used one of my favourite materials (UPVC fascia offcuts - glued and pinned together) and made an open box that was an interference fit around the body of the solenoid. Once it was slotted over the cables and painted black, it covers everything neatly. My IVA inspector described it as a "nice solution". It is easy to whip off to use the permanent live feed as my charger point. Regarding the switched live to the starter, I had a fail on not having a boot over the starter motor end of the cable so both ends need covering. It was an easy £1.00 fix, though! Simon
  15. jonjh1964's XI Build

    Hi, Jon, The poor fit of the nearside lower corner of the rear clamshell is a feature of the mould. I complained about it when I picked up my kit - and it got me nowhere. I will hopefully be taking my car along to a composites man sometime soon and this has reminded me to ask Andy to have a look at it for me. Looking further up the last page at your positioning of the fuse box and relay, I have fixed the quadrant covers to the chassis upright at the end of the dashboard using a single thumb turn screw such as: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-Pcs-M6x12mm-Zinc-Plated-Metric-Flat-Knurled-Head-Thumb-Machine-Screws-Bolts/301998723077?epid=1275279816&hash=item465086d005:g:XyEAAOSwq4VaTZLX This was after taking advice from another owner and, of course makes the panels easily removable without tools). The panels have never moved (they have been on the car for 1,500 miles) and they screw in to a rivnut fixing in the vertical chassis tube. The carpet helps to keep the bottom of the panels in place against the alloy upstand on the sill top. I don't know if you have tried your panels yet but I did have to fettle mine to fit between the dashboard and the scuttle. Simon
×