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Davemk1

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Davemk1 last won the day on February 6

Davemk1 had the most liked content!

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About Davemk1

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  • Car Details
    Westfield Mega S2000
  • My Location
    Bozeman, MT USA

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  1. Davemk1

    Help regarding fitting into a Westfield

    I'm 6'4" and 190 lbs and fit into my widebody perfectly. If I were much taller it wouldn't work but I could be a bit wider and still be fine. As said above the type of seating and how it's set up will make or break the deal. I'm using a Tillet seat bolted directly to the floor as far back as possible and the fit is just right. When I first built the car I was using the stock Westfield Sport Turbo seat mounted on the adjustable rails and it just barely worked. In my case it only really fit the way I needed it to once I started tweaking things. Small changes of 1/2" here and 3/8" there make all the difference. dave
  2. Davemk1

    Steering Column Knock

    Is the knock in an up-down direction or a fore-aft direction? dave
  3. Davemk1

    Upset neighbour

    So.....is there any chance that the car is annoyingly loud? Just asking...... dave
  4. Davemk1

    The big show us your alloy/steel wheels thread

    I have two vastly different wheel sets for my car. For the street I use 13x7 Revolutions with 205/60-13 Toyo RA1's. When competing I use a set of Real Racing Wheels in a 13x10 with 21x9x13 Avon slicks. One set rides very nicely and handles very well....the other set rides very poorly but sticks like glue. Both are fun. dave
  5. Davemk1

    Rear Right Side Tyre Rubbing.....

    I'm sure you did this but just in case......did you set the ride height with your weight in the car? dave
  6. Davemk1

    Weber set up

    I agree - my gut says it's the coil. dave
  7. Davemk1

    Weber set up

    If the miss is happening under heavy load (wide open throttle - WOT) then the likelihood that it's a air leak around the mounts is very low. Under WOT there is so much air moving through the venturis, and the vacuum is so low, that a very small amount of air coming in around the soft mounts will have little to no effect. Leaking around the soft mounts will typically show up in a big way at idle or while cruising but no so much under WOT. If the issue only happens during extended WOT the float adjustment could be an issue as the fuel level can drop in the float bowl which can cause the mixture to lean out and miss. If they idle fine and work well while cruising but miss during WOT I'd be looking not at the carbs but at the ignition. A bad coil can work OK at lower rpm's but can't keep up with the needed recharge rate at higher rpms. If you haven't already you should pull the plugs and make sure that they aren't fouling from over-fueling. Your accelerator pump jets could be too large and be throwing too much fuel in during roll-on to WOT and making it run rich and/or fouling the plugs. A quick read of the plugs should tell you. I hope that helps. dave
  8. Davemk1

    Children seats in a Westfield

    I love my car and I don't have any children but....I'd never put a kid seat in the car and use it on the open road. There is zero side impact protection and the seat would do no good at all even in the most minor tap from another car. I know these cars aren't designed to be Volvo safe and I'm fine with that for myself or another consenting adult....but putting a child in the car would be a step too fa for me personally. Just my 2 cents. dave
  9. Davemk1

    Cutting holes in the body

    I found that the two big scary holes were the ones for the exhaust and the gas tank filler neck. I thought about them for a very long time and wondered the best way to get the hole in exactly the right place. I then put the body in place without holes and realized that it was pretty darn simple. In fact I didn't measure anything. With the body in place I put the headers onto the engine and they came just shy of the inner surface of the bodywork. I traced the headers to the inside of the bodywork, removed the headers and cut the hole. The same thing was true for the gas tank filler neck.....trace the neck onto the inner surface and make the hole. I hope yours is as simple. dave
  10. Davemk1

    Flat-ish underbody -

    That's good to know Dave and it seems to line up with what I'm seeing. I've never tested a Honda thermostat and they might behave differently than the old ones I used to test in a pan of hot water. That said the ones I've put in water and then heated are not digital and aren't just fully closed and then fully open but they gradually open as the temperature gets to the min open temp and then are fully open when the water is fully hot. If the Honda thermo works the same way that would partly explain what I'm seeing. If what I'm seeing with my car is what I think it is I should think that it might be an "undesired improvement" for a road car but that it could have real value for cars used on track. In time I'll be able to test more and with any luck it will fully explain what I'm seeing. dave
  11. Davemk1

    Flat-ish underbody -

    So....here's a follow up and a bit of a surprise. Last fall/winter I installed a set of carbon panels on the underside if the chassis to surround the engine. It in effect blocks off the area for air going in or out of the bottom on the engine bay. I also made and installed a front splitter that extends back past the suspension openings. One of the concerns expressed here (and one that I shared) was that the engine might run hotter with the underside blocked off reducing airflow around the engine. Well.... spring is here and the roads are finally free of snow and I've driven the car a few times and I find it very interesting that the engine now takes noticeably longer to warm up to its normal running temp. I drive the same way when I leave the house and after a number of years of driving the car I have a good feeling of when, based on distance driven, it will come up to running temp. It varies a little bit based on ambient temperature but not by much at all. But now, with the splitter and underbody panels, it takes a good bit longer for it to reach the running temp. I've made no other changes - done zero engine or cooling system work.........just the panels. And now with then in place it take much longer for the temp to climb to running temp. I've sat and stared at the whole thing trying to puzzle it out for more time than I care to admit and I have a hypothesis. My guess is that before installing the aero stuff that the engine bay had positive air pressure while moving with air coming in the through the underbody gaps and in through the side suspension openings and this made a high pressure area - which in turn caused less air (or slower moving air) to flow through the radiator which made it less efficient. I'm thinking that now that the air can't move in or out the bottom and that less air is coming in the suspension openings (due to the splitter) that the engine bay is now a low pressure area. This of course would mean that more air moves through the rad which will make it more efficient and keep things cooler. Odd I know. I can't prove it yet but will test it out with some strings and a Go-pro camera to see what way the air moves in/out of the engine bay. But certainly any way one cuts it the engine does not run hotter but seems to run cooler. Fun with cars. dave
  12. Davemk1

    Track geometry settings

    What tires will you run? Bias ply road race slicks like much different numbers than a road tire. dave
  13. Davemk1

    Carbon nv rear diffuser

    It's a well made and good fitting piece. dave
  14. Davemk1

    Short steering arms

    Here's a weak photo of my short arms in place. It looks like they measure roughly 40 mm from tie-rod center to the mounting face. dave
  15. Davemk1

    Short steering arms

    I installed the short arms on my car when I first built it and have never used the longer arms. I have to say that they feel just right to me. One might expect that they would give the car a busy or twitchy feel and I've not found that to be true at all. To me they feel intuitive and natural.....turn-in is crisp and quick and tracking at speed is quiet and solid. From my perspective the only downside of the short arms is that my front fenders can hit the bodywork when at full lock.....that said this never happens to me. By the time the wheels are turned so sharply that they hit the bodywork you are making a very, very tight turn....too tight to practically use even getting into a tight parking spot. I wouldn't hesitate fitting the short arms if you crave quicker turn-in. I too tossed around the idea of making an arm with two or three holes to allow adjustment. My idea was to curve the arm and place the holes such that when you move the tie rod end from one position to the other that the toe doesn't change. Done this way one could drive to the track, swap positions, have a fun day, and then swap for the drive back home. Two things kept me from going down this path. First is that multiple holes in the arm would make a real weak spot when using the arms in the long-position. One could make the arms very large in cross section so that the big hole in the middle of it wouldn't weaken it too much but the room there is limited and the arms will get pretty big, clunky and heavy. The second reason is that the short arms work so well for me for everyday use as well as for racing that I feel no urge to change the geometry at all. Just my 2 cents - dave
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