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Captain Colonial

WSCC Member
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Captain Colonial last won the day on May 21

Captain Colonial had the most liked content!

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2,113 Unbelievable

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About Captain Colonial

  • Rank
    Chairman (Retired)
  • Birthday 13/05/60

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    92 SEi, 1.6 CVH w/TBs, chrome!
  • My Location
    Home for Deranged Ex-Chairmen

Recent Profile Visitors

  1. No, it's well clear of that, just one of those things. They were just balanced so the rocket scientist who did it failed to stick it down right.
  2. A member rightly pointed out to me at Stoneleigh that the wheel nuts on the front wheels were not on as far as they should be. They were on as far as they could go, but not as far as was realistically safe, about five full turns but the stud threads were not visibly protruding from the open nut face. Thus I decided to sort the situation by getting longer wheel studs, and that's where the fun began... Wheels off and measure the existing studs - they've been cut down to 35mm long by the previous owner due to the original Rimstar wheels that had centre nut vanity cover plates being unable to go on due to the overly long stud length. A little research and I found out the proper wheel stud length is 47mm, so I ordered a set from Burton. I also obtain some proper and appropriate chrome cap nuts to replace the manky open nuts. Saturday comes and I start working on changing the studs. I take just one old stud out to test the new one - yes, the length is correct and fits, happy days, so I finish installing the one for test purposes and remount the wheel, tightening the new cap nut on the new stud. The threads on the stud don't go far enough down the shaft and the nut can't go on far enough to secure the wheel firmly to the hub. Back in and on to the net to order some 6mm wheel spacers and to get a beer, not in that order. Spacers arrive today so I go to the garage tonight to fit all the new studs and spacers, which goes well. Put the wheels nuts back on and they now tighten perfectly, each cap nut holding the wheel on by about a dozen or more turns, nice and safe. I start cleaning up, satisfied with my efforts, when I notice something on the garage floor, inboard of the front right wheel. I pick it up and find they are the balance weights that have come unstuck and fallen off the inside of the wheel. I now have to take the wheel back off and take it to be rebalanced. I'm sick of taking wheels on and off to say the least. Ever get the feeling someone's taking the mickey?
  3. 5mm should be safe enough methinks... nicely done Mike!
  4. What gas mark do the carbs need and for how long?
  5. I predict a one race ban in Vettel's future. Napping when following so close is one thing, deliberately using your car as a weapon is another thing entirely. He'll rue that.
  6. It wasn't - I'd ask for a refund.
  7. It's worse than you think, an American was on the club committee for five years. There's just no accounting for things sometimes.
  8. I think two things were at play: > It provided a cheap way to make existing buildings more interior temperature stable and energy efficient at a fraction of the cost of tearing down old blocks and building new ones. > Who thinks the exterior of a concrete building is going to catch fire? Probably no one. Why use fire resistant material to protect a non-flammable surface? You probably wouldn't even consider if it was fire resistant or not when it's sandwiched between concrete and aluminium. Yet that sandwich effect seemed to act as a Venturi, accelerating the fire up the building. A lesson to be learned here as well - make sure your fridge / freezer has plenty of room around it to breathe, i.e. don't stack stuff on top of it. The cause of this was the auto defrost device for the freezer overheating.
  9. Too easy - Jeremy Kyle Next.
  10. Responding to PM now... Provisionally sold!
  11. Ford or Lucas are usually labelled quite prominently somewhere on the outer casing of the dizzy itself. May need to clean it up a bit to find it and use a mirror to see it if it's obscured. Looking at the photo of the old points again, wow are those toasted! Have you got an old set you can put back in and try before splashing out any funds, just to confirm the diagnosis? Can't tell but the contacts inside the dizzy cap might need cleaning with an emery board as well, check the rotor arm as well. As MotCO rightly says, static timing is critical. Make sure you set the points gap with the block on one of the four high spots on the dizzy cam or it will definitely not work. I'd start with his suggestion of 0.016 first.
  12. SOLD Set of four silver Minilite style 7x13 wheels PCD108 (Ford) ET16 in very good condition, no scuffs or scrapes. Westfield logos on centre caps. Comes with existing part worn Yoko A021R 185/70 R13 tyres, 5mm tread on fronts, 2.5mm to rears, tons of grip, excellent for trashing on a track day or three. Collection from Leamington Spa (Warwickshire) or via WSCC courier service, or arrange your own courier. Willing to meet and hand them over within a 50 mile radius if that helps - we can discuss it. For comparison, price for a set of four new wheels in that size is about £350.00 without the tyres, and price of a new set of A021R tyres in that size is £420.00 plus fitting. WSCC Members price £240.00 (car not included). PM if any questions or email me at ms-wscc@virginmedia.com - thanks for looking!
  13. I'm pretty sure gap is dependant upon dizzy manufacturer - Motorcraft / Ford is 0.025, Lucas is 0.016. Anyway, going breakerless ignition is definitely a no-brainer unless you're into being chronically bent over your engine with a feeler gauge. Although my CVH had a basic non-points dizzy, I too suffered from the hard starting procedure that was a battery killer because of the high advance just like MotCO. My cold start procedure was pump primed, 3.5 full pedal pumps, let the pump refill the bowls, then quarter throttle and turn starter. Usually worked but the starter always fought the engine because of the advance and sometimes the battery lost. Thank goodness that isn't normal procedure any more since converting to throttle bodies and an ECU - I'd forgotten what it was like to have an engine that cranks freely.
  14. My suspects in order: Points closed up Timing incorrect (no room to advance under load) If connected, vacuum advance pipe blocked / perished / disconnected Vacuum advance unit on dizzy failed if connected Dizzy ignition advance weights frozen Bad coil that intermittently cuts out once hot (hence cold operation question) Cracked dizzy cap that opens up once hot (see above) Highly doubt fuel system fault simply because it revs fine when not under load, indicating an ignition advance issue.
  15. Okay, that's a good start. The fact that it revs fine when not under load helps narrow it. Not going to speculate until you drive it again when it's cold, but it eliminates a few suspects. What I would recommend is to ditch the points and get an electronic system ASAP. Points cause more issues than almost anything else even when correctly set. It's certainly a prime suspect at this point.