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BillyPee last won the day on June 11 2014

BillyPee had the most liked content!

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About BillyPee

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    Average Joe Driver

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  • Car Details
    1993 SEiW 1700 Crossflow with Weber 40DCOE
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  1. tech talk

    You don't specify whether you have drums or disks at the rear. If you have drums like mine, you will find that the smallest hub centric spacers you can fit are 20mm. The issue is that the spacer will not fit flush against your hub because the spigot on your hub will foul on it. If you use a plain spacer, there will not be enough of the spigot to form a lip to centre the wheel. With a little trial and error, you can use a thin plain spacer (say 5mm) and a 12mm hub centric to achieve 17mm in total but you really do need to check that the spacer and hub are flush. Finally, the drum on mine has a little flange at the centre which requires a spacer with a recess too. There are different lengths of longer studs. You need to ensure you have sufficient engagement with nut/stud for safety. Consider open nuts if you don't already have them.
  2. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    Thanks Justin. Yes, it worked before but I believe that the engineering company we used did not reassemble correctly. I didn't show it in the photos but I got a better degree wheel (metal so it did not deform and not printed in ink that rubs off!) which gave me much more repeatable numbers, especially when I used a wire to indicate TDC rather than eyeballing it. That's why I am now confident that I am timed correctly.
  3. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    I thought it was about time I updated everyone on progress. Clutch I tried my clutch alignment tool in the new clutch plate and it would not fit; the hole was too small. It seemed that the Std clutch kit Ford X/Flow OHV Kent Escort Mk2 190mm 619001506 was wrong for my application. I took some measurements and contacted Burton Power who were very helpful as usual. They advised that I must have a 23 spline, 1" input shaft. I checked again, and the new clutch plate only had 20 splines. Burton organised the return and helped me select the correct items. I now have a Helix HD clutch instead. Unfortunately, this is not available as a kit. If anyone visits this thread looking for a shopping list, the individual items are: Helix HD clutch cover 190mm: Ford X/Flow OHV Kent Escort Mk2 (curly finger type) & 1.6 Pinto (not GT) 60-3329 Helix HD clutch plate 190mm 1"x23 spline: Ford X/Flow OHV Kent RWD & 1.6 SOHC Pinto (not GT) with 5 speed box, etc 70-1605 Clutch release bearing: SOHC Ford Pinto, Cosworth YB 2wd, Essex V6, Taunus/Cologne V6. Fits Type E Rocket, Type 9 5 speed, Type 5 V6 & T5 Borg Warner gearboxes ECB113 I have checked and the alignment tool does fit the replacement clutch plate. I haven't assembled it on the motor yet though. I also purchased this Engine to bellhousing dirt plate: Ford X/Flow OHV Kent (not Mexico) RHD FP650 to fit between the engine and gearbox as there is a large gap at the bottom into which dirt could ingress. However, this does not fit my bellhousing and so was returned. I wasn't able to find a replacement, so I plan to reassemble without. Camshaft Timing I checked the Haynes manual and concluded that the timing marks did not align on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. This was disappointing as I would have expected the camshaft to have been timed by the engineering company. There is a lesson here, always check and never assume. I took the trouble to degree the camshaft and I am glad I did because it was not timed correctly. I repeated my measurements but it came out at around 85deg ATDC time after time. Not knowing what camshaft I had meant that I could not know for sure where full lift should be but on the assumption that I have a BCF1 then it should be around 109deg. The engine turns over by hand and although the valves do not hit the piston I thought I would check the clearance. I used some Blu Tack and it was very close on the intake valve. Not knowing for sure what camshaft I have was really annoying me so I decided to remove the rear cover to see if I could ID it but there was nothing obvious stamped on the other end of this camshaft. So I went ahead and removed the camshaft but there really are no obvious stamps on this camshaft. As I mentioned in an earlier post, there is a very faint 1 and a single letter before it which looks like a it could be a capital F so my working assumption at this stage is that it is a worn off BCF1 (which makes sense given the cam lift I measured). I reassembled with the chain one tooth off where it was before and timed it again. Now it is about 110deg and the timing marks align up. Result! I repeated the Blu Tack test and there is much more clearance now. There is also 2mm of lift at TDC (which compares to 1.67mm according to Kent for the BCF1). I am now happy that the cam is timed correctly. Gearbox Unfortunately, the gearbox is still at BGH Geartech. I spoke to Chris last week and he thinks it will be with me by the end of February; fingers crossed.
  4. Cheshire & N. Staffs Monthly Meet 4th January

    Thanks for organising the new venue @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary. I will be there. See you Thursday.
  5. Non-Westfield build

    Can't believe I missed this so far. Great build up Chris... keep the updates coming.
  6. Lovely looking car you have there --- great motor too!
  7. Peak District Xmas Holiday Run, Weds 27th Dec

    Looks like great fun. You guys and gals must be bonkers in this weather
  8. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    Thanks for the info Justin. I recall reading (probably on this forum and perhaps one of your posts) that the Kent 234 may fit without pocketing the pistons but it would require checking first (the implication being that Kent Cams were erring on the side of caution because the block may have been skimmed umpteen times). When I looked into the Kent 234 kit, it comes with different springs and cam followers and may require alteration to the valve spring seat and I just thought it wasn't worth the gamble/hassle at this stage. That is not to say that I won't consider it for a future winter upgrade. I have done some inspection to understand exactly what engine and components I have. The block is a 711M block: I have checked the camshaft that is installed but I cannot see any model number stamped on it. N.B. I couldn't see anything at the time but the photo looks like there might be a 1 stamped on the edge, or maybe I am just seeing things. What I did find was that there is a 4 degree offset camshaft dowel fitted. The block itself is stamped with NK, which accord to the Burton Ford Manufacture Dates page means it was cast in October 1973. The pistons are cast and all are stamped with 18649 which indicates that they are 1.6 pistons and not 1.3 which might have been used to increase compression. Nural piston Ford 1.6 X/Flow OHV Kent 711M +0.090" 18649/090 All of the pistons are +90 thou but, interestingly, three of the pistons are stamped H39+090 and one is K16+0.0 so it would appear that one of the pistons has been replaced at some point. I have measured the cam lift with a dial gauge and it comes out at 6.7mm. Looking at the range of Kent Cams, this puts it about where the BCF1 and BCF2 are (6.62mm). This is more than the 5-point-something lift of the standard and GT cams so it is probable that the current camshaft is a mild road cam already. The last thing of interest was that A680 is stamped next to where the distributor is located. All the best, Bill
  9. Replacing rubber bushes advice needed

    You might not need a press; we did it ourselves with a vice, a range of sockets, and some off-cuts of wood. When I have needed to use a local garage I've founding that you can get most things done in exchange for a dozen donuts.
  10. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    I've not updated this thread for a while as there has not been too much to report. However, the engine is now back from having the cylinder bores honed, the crankshaft polished and new main, thrust and big end bearings fitted. Also, the pistons have been decoked and re-ringed. It's a vast improvement on before. It's been reassembled as a short block with the same camshaft as it had before. I decided against the changing the camshaft at this stage as the priority this winter is reliability not power. I would have compromised and fitted a mild cam (probably a BCF2) in order to avoid replacing/pocketing the pistons. Ultimately, I intend to change the pistons and go to a racier cam (probably a 234) so I have saved the money (to spend on other things that are a higher priority). Going faster can wait for another winter. The old starter motor has always been a bit lazy and the alternator got damaged when it was removed. So, and with reliability in mind, I have purchased a new gear reduction starter motor and 60A alternator from Brise: Ford Kent, BDA 892909PGR Brise 5SIACR The new starter motor is much smaller and lighter. It also incorporates the starter solenoid which means I can tidy-up the bulkhead by removing the old one. This starter also places a much lighter demand on the battery so should make starting easier and reduce the risk of getting a flat battery. The alternator is also an upgrade and is much smaller and lighter than the Lucas alternator we took off. This combination will be a great foundation for future upgrades too. I have to say that Brise were a pleasure to deal with, promptly answering my questions and dispatching the items from stock immediately. They even included the correct pulley and connections. The gearbox is still with BGH and that is likely to be back in mid-January which gives me plenty of time to get the engine ready. I've had a few deliveries from Burton Power, including a new standard clutch kit and ARP flywheel bolts and head studs, etc. Plenty of work still to do.
  11. Pre Lit Ally bodied - Build Thread

    The boot box looks great Gary. Those seats are really in keeping with the look you are going for too.
  12. Master cylinder fixing query

    FYI, the part with the split pin is called a clevis pin. I didn't know what they were called until recently when I needed one to secure the clutch cable.
  13. Type 9 Clutch Fork locating bush

    They are available at Burton, I bought one last week.
  14. Just bought my first kit car

    Fantastic car. The engineering looks first rate and the fuel injection and dry-sumping of the mighty xflow is an inspiration. Have fun with it.
  15. polo radiator

    I don't have a low-line but I changed from a slanted Escort radiator to a vertical Polo radiator which necessitates the fabrication of new brackets. One thing I would point out is that, from an efficiency perspective, you want to minimise the gap between the outside of the radiator and the inside of the nose cone (so that air flows through the radiator and not around it). Also, the Polo radiator is not as tall as the Escort radiator, so I would have thought it would be possible to mount vertical (even in the low-line nose cone).