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BillyPee

WSCC Member
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BillyPee last won the day on June 11 2014

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About BillyPee

  • Rank
    Average Joe Driver

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    1993 SEiW 1700 Crossflow with Weber 40DCOE
  • My Location
    Stockport
  1. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    Thanks Gary, that's a great explanation. I understand exactly what you are saying. Thanks Dave, I think the penny is dropping. I'm going to draw this up so that I can be sure I understand exactly what goes where. As you can tell, it doesn't sit comfortable with me just blindly splicing wires together and crossing fingers.
  2. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    Thanks Gary, that is a big help. I took some (not particularly great) photos of the wires that went to the old starter solenoid before dismantling. As you can see, the negative threaded terminal has a thick black wire connected to it. Does this simply piggyback onto the terminal that has the thick cable going to starter motor proper? In the instructions, it says "Please do not paint any part of the starter mounting bracket as this can cause bad earthing" so I assume that is how it is earthed (via mounting to the bell housing). The other change I need to make is to the alternator plug. It has changed from a 3-pin to a 2-pin. The old Lucas alternator looked like this: With a 3-pin plug. The 2 brown wires bell-out on the two on the starter solenoid. The thinner brown/yellow wire I did not trace but I assume is for the dashboard warning light. The instructions for the Brise alternator includes this diagram: Am I right in thinking: the brown/yellow wire on my old plug connects to L (yellow wire) on the new it does not matter which thick brown wire I connect to the IG (green wire) as they both bell-out on the starter solenoid positive terminal the redundant thick brown wire is to be removed What I am confused about is the B+ connection. It looks like I need to make up a thick red cable. Does this go back to the starter solenoid positive terminal (like the redundant brown wire)? Apologies in advance for all the questions, I am just trying to get my head around what goes where. Cheers, Bill
  3. X-Flow - Identifying replacement choke kit

    Hi Chris, I also do not use a choke. In fact, I have done away with the cold start device (choke) completely. You can go one further and buy a kit from Webcon to replace the mechanism with a blanking plate and remove the internals (can help prevent fuel leaks). Kind regards, Bill
  4. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    My thoughts have now turned to the wiring of the new starter motor and alternator. I thought it would be an easy swap but there are enough differences between what I had and what the instructions say that I thought it best to double-check with you guys as wiring is not my strong point and there is no guarantee that it was right before! The old setup featured a separate Lucas starter solenoid and starter motor but the new Brise starer motor has the starter solenoid incorporated. The old Lucas starter solenoid looks like this: The 2 big threaded terminals are the positive and negative. Positive had the thick red wire from the killswitch, 2 brown wires to the alternator, and a thin red wire which I assume was the fuel pump. The third smaller spade terminal had a white/red wire. The new Brise starter motor looks like this. Is the big terminal is where I attach what was on the positive terminal of the old starter solenoid? Is it that simple? I then have a connector/plug but I don't have the female connector for this. I have had a look on Polevolt but it is not obvious which connector this is. Can anyone help me identify it please? Or perhaps I should just replace with an alternative? Finally, am I correct in thinking that this will connect to the red/white wire that was connected to the smaller spade terminal on the old starter solenoid?
  5. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    Sorry for keeping this going beyond winter; it was not my intention! It is taking longer than expected but that always seems to be the case. Anyway, as of yesterday, the engine is now in. Still plenty of work to do though. Better get back to it.
  6. Cheshire & N. Staffs monthly meet. Thursday 5th April

    Sorry guys I won't be there this month. Have fun and hopefully see you in the Westy for the May meet.
  7. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    Thanks Dave. Nearly there. I've plenty of spare time this weekend so hoping to make good progress.
  8. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    The flywheel is now attached to the crankshaft. The flywheel is from TTV Racing and is the 110 teeth, 6 bolt, Lite flywheel. I have used the ARP flywheel bolt set: Ford X/Flow OHV Kent, Lotus Twin Cam, BDA & Essex ARPFW01 for the bolts. As per the instructions I have used Loctite 242 on the threads and ARP Ultra-Torque under the heads before torquing down to spec. I cleaned the flywheel and clutch cover with brake cleaner to ensure that they were clean and that the protective coating on the clutch plate was removed. Using the clutch alignment tool should have made things simple but it did not keep the clutch perfectly centred so it was a bit of a fiddle to get that last mm centred but I did in the end. I ensured that I sandwiched the clutch the right way around then torqued down the clutch cover in the bolt order provided in the instructions and to the spec in the Haynes manual. The new metric set screws are 8.8, M8 x 16mm and fit perfectly. That's it as far as engine re-assembly is concerned and it is ready to go back in. Got a few jobs to finish on the car first (as I need access to the transmission tunnel). Once I have replaced the brake pipe, I still have the new fuel pump to install. The old one was in the engine bay but the new one is going next to the tank. That means running the wiring down the tunnel and while I am at it I am replacing the fuel hose with Gates Barricade because it just makes sense while access is so good.
  9. It's a long shot but check for fuel leaks in the hose when it has warmed up (visible leaks or a stronger smell of fuel). I had a slit in the hose down the transmission tunnel on mine that didn't leak when cold/hard, but did once the hose was warm/soft and fuel was being pumped through it.
  10. Diff and gearbox oil

    I've just had my Type 9 refurbished by BGH Geartech and they have recommended Comma SX75W-90 GL4, capacity 1.6 litres.
  11. Where to fit Fuel pump on SEW

    I'm trying to work out the same thing, although I have one of solid state, cuboid, Facet fuel pumps. The kit comes with bobbins but no bracket so I have made my own. I haven't fitted it yet because like you I can't decide on where to position it. At the moment I am thinking it will be on the lower chassis rail between the lower wishbone attachments. It far from perfect but once the filter and tails are on the pump it is quite long so options are limited. I would ideally like to mount it higher but I understand that the pump ought to be at the same height as the outlet on the tank. I will be sure to take some photos next weekend.
  12. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    I tried grease, no dice. I can confirm that the grease method is very, very messy; don't try it at home kids. I tried bread but that did not work either (it was Warburtons rather than Hovis so I'm thinking that might have been the issue ). What with the grease and the bread, it took a couple of hours to clean up the mess. I concluded that the success of both these methods is dependent on the fit of the peg you hammer in. If a slide hammer fails to budge it, the peg would have to be nothing short of a machine fit to work, and mine wasn't. I removed the seal and the race without too much problem. Then it was out with the Dremel, to carefully sand and drill away material from the bearing. Eventually I was able to split it enough, to weaken its grip, and the slide hammer did its job. The new spigot bearing is now fitted and looking resplendant. We test fitted the flywheel and bell housing to check the starter motor engagement. It is hard to see with the bell housing in the way but it looked to be well aligned. We took some measurements and it seems that the pinion and flywheel are going to engage perfectly. Its not finally assembled yet as the new TTV flywheel has metric threads for the clutch bolts and the old flywheel (and so the retaining bolts I have) is imperial. I measured up and it looks like M8 x 16 mm is the nearest to my old bolts so I have ordered some up and hope to get this all together this week.
  13. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    The replacement brake pipe has been made up --- just needs fitting now. I'm struggling with the removal of the spigot bearing from the crank. I have a slide hammer but it is not budging. Going to leave the penetrating fluid to work overnight and have another go tomorrow. If it still won't budge, I think I will have to (carefully) destroy it to remove it.
  14. Anyone starting their winter tinkering list yet ?

    Sorry, but the water pump fitting was like that when I purchased the car so I cannot comment on how it got to be positioned just so; maybe whoever fitted it was lucky. On my rocker cover, I used a male-to-male adapter and a swivelling 90 degree elbow like this: This lets you point the outlet in any direction you desire. I expect there will be enough room to do this but check the clearance to the cylinder head to be sure.
  15. Peak District Scenic Stunner Sun 11th March

    Have fun, looks like you have great weather for this today.
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