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AdamR last won the day on October 20 2016

AdamR had the most liked content!

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About AdamR

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    CleaR Motorsport

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  • Car Details
    SEW 1.8 Zetec
  • My Location
    Chorley, LANCS
  1. 2018 Draft Reg and Explainations

    I agree, and I don't think the way the series is set up is encouraging this at the moment, which is a shame. I have made my thoughts known before about this. Here's my last suggestion: how about making novice target times more realistic and not having them count towards the full / main championship? That protects the 'old guard' so they can take away the pots at the end of year, yet still gives newbies the chance of scoring decent points. You can defend the current system all you want with comments about being close to other competitors on the day, but people want to feel like they at least have a decent chance of getting near to the times that are 'expected' for their spec of car (that is what a target time is, right?). If they are getting high 80s / low 90s on the points then they don't feel good about the time, effort and money they have expended. The feel good is what keeps people coming back. Haven't seen TTs yet but would strongly encourage you to look at Class A and B target times for the coming season, using actual data where it is available. A lot of newbies would end up in these classes and some of the calculated ones are stupendous - both novice and expert. 2% slower than Class C and D is a joke. Again I know this is to protect the top boys, and you don't want the lower classes winning overall, but IMO it should be a level playing field throughout. Apologies for the 'harsh' message but I have a feeling I was too subtle with my comments / thoughts last year. I'm not hiding behind a screen here either, I feel strongly about this and would happily put these words forward in real life too.
  2. Who's changed to their winter tyres!

    Ditto that! AD08Rs aren't much kop in this, struggled to get off my street! Winter wheels / tyres now fitted
  3. MSA Rollbar - £180

    Maybe David is getting confused with the RAC bar. Those are much less sought-after not being sprint legal any longer. Still worth a good £50-100 though from what I've seen, they are a worthy upgrade over the standard Ikea (flat-pack ) roll hoop!
  4. Fuel tank foam

    Try it and see how you go then. No point adding cost, complexity and weight if you don't need to
  5. Fuel tank foam

    Coolio I only mention it as that system works perfectly for me. Perhaps a less thirsty engine is a benefit! With your space constraints, maybe you'll need to go down the swirl pot route.
  6. Fuel tank foam

  7. Fuel tank foam

    This works for me - right down to a couple of litres in the tank, on track.
  8. Zetec into Narrow SE

    I reckon a bike setup is a good shout. Simple, light, cheap. There's a chap on here who recently fitted a ZZR1400 and I think he was selling off the old engine setup?
  9. Donington Park end of Jan - madness?

    I have a feeling you'd struggle Russ unfortunately. I have seen some cars that I wouldn't have thought were loud get pulled at Donny
  10. Donington Park end of Jan - madness?

    It's the position of the mics sadly, Russ. I very much doubt a Westy with 'open' induction (hole in the bonnet) will pass, and it may get close on just exhaust depending on which side yours exits.
  11. Sealing taper threads

    Dab of (good quality) silicone sealant here
  12. Hi Spec Brake Pads

    The Apec pads are road pads - I use them in my road car (and van) too - work from cold, no noise
  13. Hi Spec Brake Pads

    If it's the 4pots, then yes. Same pad as S2 Elise and also Impreza rear from the late 90s. Would recommend Apec pads over the Mintex 1144s having raced on both, part code for those is PAD1356: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Apec-OE-Quality-Replacement-Front-Brake-Pads-PAD1356/331753370332?hash=item4d3e0ab2dc:g:CmgAAOSwYIhWljie
  14. Black friday deals

    Not really!
  15. Brake fluid - how much to buy

    1L is plenty. I use an old coke bottle, with the lid drilled to push some PVC hose through, then a bolt screwed into the end of the hose (in the bottle) and a slit made lengthways in the hose. The slit opens up when pressurised from the inside (pressing the brake pedal) and closes when fluid is attempted to be sucked back through it (releasing the pedal). This combined with some PTFE tape on the bleed nipple threads allows quick and easy one-man bleeding - just pump the pedal slowly and you're done Another tip is to empty the master before starting, otherwise you're just pushing a few hundred mil of old fluid through the system before starting with the fresh stuff.