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New car a few niggles!


Timmay Zoom Zoom

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How do you post pics here?

Loving my new car but have a few niggles that I would appreciate some advise on.

Firstly I need to fit some mirrors, thinking of the link below:

QQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ca68eba92" target="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Robin-h....68eba92

Any ideas where exactly to mount these?

Noticed a few stones hitting the rear arches. Have seem some rear arch protectors on a few cars in both carbon and clear. I like the idea of clear. Any ideas what materials and where I could get something to protect them?

I have Vauxhall redtop lump. The temp gauge is not working. I drive for 20-30 mins and it move very little, any ideas on how to get it more accurate, a few tests i could do or something?

The turn over at start is not great. I have been advised to check the earths. I have a kill switch(imobilisor plug) do you know if this causes a problem? Any other ideas how to improve?

The fuel gague sticks up top. I have a mini tank 3.5 gallons. Any idea on how I could test this or make it more accurate?

Also planning on painting the sub frame (Black tubes) they have a little surface rust in a few places. Please can you advise what is best to get rid of the rust (Poss elbow grease and a wire brush) and also what is the best paint to use. Black.

Apart from this am loving the car, looking forward to going to a local meet in hampshire/thames valley, may have to wait until next year though as its getting a bit nippy?

Also, do many people take the car off the roan in the winter, i.e. take off the tax etc, any tips for this to get max refund etc?

Also any suggestions on how to reduce the wind a little, I have some perspex side screens but have little effect.

Thanks

Tim

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welcome Tim - glad you are enjoying the westy

your link does not work ref the mirrors - if you have a aero screen try searching for GSXR mirrors, that is what I have - if not then try westfield for screen type mirrors

rear arch protexctors can be purchased from westfield (carbon effect) or many others such as carbon mods and fluke motorsports

if the temp gauge moves very little it could be running too cool (maybe thermostat has been removed to cover up a problem?) or maybe the sensor is the wrong type - could be many other things too - get a m8 in the trade to have a look for you or wait until your next club meet and take the care with you if you can brave the cold  :laugh:

turnover at start not great? do you mean the engine turns over slow? check the battery first with a drop tester or similar - or failing that try jumping it off another car and if it turns over ok then maybe your battery is shot or just needs a charge up if the vehicle has been stood - and yup check all wires to starter and battery etc

fuel gauge - check the wires on the sender (I think I am right in saying that if you touch the two wires together the fuel gauge should go to max) please wait for someone else to confirm this first b4 you go blowing yourself up  :laugh:

POR15 is supposed to be good paint and prep for the chassis - I may be trying some soon on my project

my car is on the road all year round - just get well wrapped up  :love:

regarding reducing the wind - I will let the others put their comedy comments up  :laugh:

some more details may be useful for the guys to help with your faults

good luck  :t-up:

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Noticed a few stones hitting the rear arches. Have seem some rear arch protectors on a few cars in both carbon and clear. I like the idea of clear. Any ideas what materials and where I could get something to protect them?

Hi Tim and Welcome,

For clear arch protectors I'd recomend Premier Paint Guard I fitted some of these to my car at the start of this year and they seem to be doing a good job so far.

Mark

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If you drop the water temp sensor into a cup of boiling water does the guage move to 100C ? If so the guage and sensor are fine and the problem (if indeed there is one) is in the cooling system.
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Tim,

You do not say what car you have and if the instruments are the new eletronic gismoes or the old Smith type mechanical type.

My car is a narrow body, VX engine, Mini tank

using old technologygauges. My fuel and temperature gauges are doing the same as yours.

If you are using say Smiths gauges you are trying to match a different engine to  maybe gauges of an older car.

It normally means you will have to get your gauges re calibrated. In terms of the fuel gauge mine dissappears over to the right and does not  show itself for the first 20 or thirty miles. So what?  kid yourself you are using no fuel. But the main thing is to see what happens at the empty end. On mine (mini tank) it means when the needle reaches empty, it is empty with no spare at the bottom.

With regards to the temp gauge this is maybe a matter of trying different sensors untill you get one that matches or nearly nmatches the gauge. Mine runs about the middle when normal and over heats about on 3/4. As long as you know this then that's all that counts. Not sure what recalibration of the gauges costs but like everything else it won't be cheap.  

Are you ruuning on webers or fuel injection. Do you have a throttle position sensor (if carbs). My car seems to struggle on starting recently and I am sure it is something to do with the timing. If I hold the throttle open slightly it will start . If I try it with the coke out it seems to lock up. Have not worked out this one out yet. If you do, let me know.

Painting, I find Hammerite chips to easy. People tell me normal car paint is fine with good undercoated. I painted mine with an two pack expoxy floor paint. It seems to have lasted fine for the last 15 years.

Driving in winter hammers the chasis frame at the back around the fuel tank. If you have to drve in winter keep an eye out for this.  It is also a pain in the butt if you want to put the hood up.

It terms of drafts you will get no sympathy from this lot. especially the aero screen nutters. They are not happy

unless thet are freezing cold , covered in flys and getting the occasion brick or two in the face.

Happy motoring

Tony

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Just a note on Tony's good comments made

1. I use a product called ACF50 which you spray everywhere underneath (except brakes if you like stopping :laugh: ) it prevents corrosion whilst on the road in the winter and can be re-applied as often as you like and washes off when required

2. I am a converted winsdscreen to aero nutter and have had no bad experiances yet after 2-3k of driving - I was a real sceptic as well -  however 98% of that driving is with a crash helmet so stops most of the nasties

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Just a note on Tony's good comments made

1. I use a product called ACF50 which you spray everywhere underneath (except brakes if you like stopping :laugh: ) it prevents corrosion whilst on the road in the winter and can be re-applied as often as you like and washes off when required

2. I am a converted winsdscreen to aero nutter and have had no bad experiances yet after 2-3k of driving - I was a real sceptic as well -  however 98% of that driving is with a crash helmet so stops most of the nasties

1) ACF50 is wonderful stuff

2) I am a converted aero to windscreen nutter  I do 4.5ks per year - so what does Cleggy know.

(It takes all sorts  :D  :D  :D )

Rory's Dad

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2) I am a converted aero to windscreen nutter  I do 4.5ks per year - so what does Cleggy know.

(It takes all sorts  :D  :D  :D )

Rory's Dad

not much  :laugh:

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have had no bad experiances yet after 2-3k of driving -

you've done 2-3k worth of driving in the same timeframe as it's taken westfield to work out what's wrong with my car  :0

my car doesnt even have 2k miles on it  :0

2 months and counting and still no fixed car  :bangshead:

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whats going on with your motor Edd?
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ok - PM me  :laugh:  that's bad news m8  :(
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Driving in winter only causes chassis issues if salt and damp are involved. If they are not, then it is fine, or wash well after a run out and dry before storing.

Drafts are sort of expected i am afraid.

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Hello,

I saw a new blue Westy out around Fair Oak, Hampshire on Sunday, was that you? Looked very smart! :)

I use a free photo site, http://www.flickr.com/ to upload photos and you can then link to them using the 'Image' button as the flickr site can give you a static web link to the image.

Local Hampshire meet is on this Sunday... (The Luzborough House nr Romsey at midday)

Dom

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There are a number of fuel sender and gauge types that use different ranges. :Almost all fuel sender & guage combinations would give you some gauge movement between a full tank and and an empty tank, so if you get no gauge movement at all I suspect a connection problem. ...unless someone has squeezed a full range sensor into a shallower tank without adjusting it and it is not free to move.

                                                           Jim.

Type 1 works on 10 Ohms Empty 180 Ohms Full

Type 2 works on 0 Ohms empty 90 Ohms full

Type 3 works 240 Ohms empty 33 Ohms full.

Mix gauge and sender types and you get inverted readings, inaccurate readings, often both. Take for example if you have a type 2 sender, never giving out more than 90 Ohms - attach this to a type 3 gauge and your tank will only ever read from full to 3/4 full.

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