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Westfield AP uprated brakes


adamnreeves

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NO sorry but if they stop my car they must be pretty good  :p
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Does any know the spec? bore size, etc. AP part number?

if you thinking of trying outside of westfield then i belive you'll struggle

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Does any know the spec? bore size, etc. AP part number?

Are you after the AP master cylinder  ???

Nope, I have the AP master cylinder which is bore 0.812. I was asking about the bore size of the pistons on the AP brakes because I have decided not to go for the AP brakes themselves and was wondering what brakes I should go for to match the master brake cylinder. I keep changing my mind but I am currently thinking of going to the raceleda brakes.

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whats behind your thoughts ?

what do you want ?

whats up with ap's?

a little more info would be nice to see whats your actually after

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whats behind your thoughts ?

what do you want ?

whats up with ap's?

a little more info would be nice to see whats your actually after

Hey, I am in a constant dilema regarding building my car and what components I shoul be using.  I think you have to be in order to make considered decisions and produce something that one would be proud off :p

I would have preferred AP brakes, this is why I ordered the AP master brake cylinder in the first place. Since then I have been told that big vented discs on the front for mainly road driving with occasional track use are unecessary and add uncessary weight to unsprung weight. APs are expensive. I was thinking of wilwoods, mainly because they are a cheaper. I did look at raceleda kit and like the look and weight of the discs but and have read some people having problems using other calipers with these discs so I think raceleda calipers with raceleda discs are a good option, more money than wilwoods but a lot less than APs. I also read from other posts, replies to mine, that raceleda calipers are actually re-branded outlaws. These are my thoughts at the moment, whether I  am mis-guided, incorrect or  unjustfied is another matter!

Edit: I forgot to mention, the raceleda calipers are a direct fitment, i.e. no need for extra brackety, they are Lugs not radial fitment.

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Don't discount the CAT items (basically HiSpec). Mine went on requiring just a few spacers (and a slight mod to the fitting on the brake hose, but if you're building from scratch that won't be an issue). They also (apparently) are designed to work with the standard M/C.

Now if only I could get a decent pedal :)

Andy

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I thought you started a while back that you where all for the looks more than anything if thats the case there can only be AP at the front,
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I thought you started a while back that you where all for the looks more than anything if thats the case there can only be AP at the front,

Are you a vampire! what time! No seriously. Yep, you right about my thoughts on looks but my opionion is slowly changing, speaking to the likes of Blatman, etc. Of course when costs comes into it and blown budgets then.... As far as looks are concerned I do not think APs looks that good, but the name is well known and performance second to none. I prefer the hispecs over APs in terms of looks, i.e. ano finish, especially the gold ones that would look neat on my yellow car.

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ok ,have you seen the brake setup i am running?

i have discs and bells from fluke very light ,ali bells and lightened discs , with these i use the wilwood powerlight caliper .

the fit was excelent and took about and hour to fit and bleed in total  from having existing m16 the look seems excelent and the weight is about as low as you'll get .

My only reservation was pads as the powerlite was a new caliper out andnothing by pagid or mintex had been made ,but i used the wilwood poly a pads and they are really awsome . I run slicks on track and the stopping power is great although i may need the AP master cylinder as they are to easy to lock if you stamp as i often do on full chat.They also perform as normal on road with no wooden feel and good modulation .

2005_0616brake0002.jpg

2005_0616brake0003.jpg

2005_0616brakes0003.jpg

2005_0616brakes0004.jpg

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I run slicks on track and the stopping power is great although i may need the AP master cylinder as they are to easy to lock if you stamp as i often do on full chat.

As a bit of a lud, can you explain that if the brakes are too easy to lock up now, why would the AP master cylinder be better?

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basically the  reason you have a long pedal is that the bore size does not exactly match the piston size in the caliper , therefore there is less resistance when you push the pedal but the caliper moves easily and therefore is easier to lock a brake because you need a much lighter touch .

if you increase the bore size of the master cylinder you actually need more pedal presure to lock the brakes,  in a given tube and increase in diameter with increase volume but decrease preasure .

the ap master cylinder btw is just a different bore size from what i understand to match the 4 pots , i will speak to rally design to find the require fluid movement and get a master cylinder to match be it ap/wilwood or any other make .

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